Toronto - Niagara Falls - Boston

The last few days have been really hectic starting Sunday. We only had the day to pile in everything we wanted to do in Toronto, having lost a day due to the late arrival of the train. The final day on board the train was interesting as we made our way through the Ontario landscape, again entirely different to the previous provinces that we had left behind. Large tracts of forest with many many lakes. Apparently Ontario has over 250,000 lakes, so many that most are not named. The chef did a wonderful job of providing food for both an extra lunch and dinner for the travellers.

Sunday – We made the most of a fine day by spending most of it outdoors. We did a tour around the inner harbour and Toronto islands, then made our way across the water again, this time a 10 minute water taxi ride, to stroll through the island parks. It was a warm day and we are both sporting a bit of colour from our day there in the sun. Back on the mainland, Pam wanted to go up the tower for the views of Toronto and beyond. A copy of the Auckland sky tower in looks, eight elevators servicing it, a moving restaurant and glass floors if you dare to stand on them! Barbara decided to forego the excursion and wait for Pam in the area although this may not have been the wisest choice as the bottom of the tower is also the outlet for the local baseball stadium. Our visit coincided with the egress of the thousands and thousands of fans that had been watching the local Blue Jays team play. Apparently the only first class baseball team in Canada.

Toronto Islands from top of tower 

Pam with CN tower behind

 Monday – we started the day at 8 am when we were picked up from the hotel by our driver, Duncan for a day excursion to Niagara Falls. The Falls are about a two hour drive from downtown Toronto and we had a few stops on the way which included a break in Niagara-on-the-Lake, a delightful town at the point where the Niagara River enters Lake Ontario.

Town of Niagara-on-the-Lake

We wandered around and took in the culinary delights of the local bakery. Then to a local fruit stall, late summer and all the fruits are at their best. The winery was high on most people’s list and Pam tried the wine-tasting experience. Finally we reached the Falls and really it is impossible to prepare oneself for the awe-inspiring vista in front of you. We donned our pretty pink plastic capes before heading out on the water in the Hornblower boat, which took us up close to the Falls on the US border, and then to the Horseshoe Falls which are in Canadian territory. The massive spray was incredible and we got a good soaking although the plastics did a great to the top of the Horseshoe Falls and were within reaching distance of where the water tumbles down from the top. Fortunately we had kept our plastics as they came in very handy once again. While this experience was one that we both had some doubts about doing, it was truly a great experience.

Ready to board the boat 

Niagara Falls (American side)

Barbara looking towards Horseshoe Falls (Canadian)

Our lunch spot

The mighty waters heading over the Horseshoe Falls

Tuesday – Off to Boston in the morning so we were up early to make our way to the train (just across the road from our hotel) to take us to the Pearson international airport and then through the myriad of checks to get us through customs and into America. It took time for us both to be fingerprinted on two separate occasions and also photographed twice and through security, but with the checks done before we left, we were able to just walk out of the terminal at Boston without any further delays. Checked into our hotel before venturing out into the late summer warmth of Boston.and got our bearings.

Barbara

Boston – a short one hour flight from Toronto. First stop on the agenda was the Botanical Gardens and the Swan Boats!  I had wanted to see these as not only did they look great but they are cheap to ride!  The “pilot” pedals around the duck pond with up to 24 people on board. Then we walked across Boston Common, a large green space in the middle of Boston. Went to the visitor info centre, as you do, got some good tips on where to find a few things, and did a tiki tour around the theatre district.  The friendly lady at the Post Office told us where to find a plaque commemorating the spot where Alexander Graham Bell made his first telephone call on 10th March 1876 – just look what he started!!

Next we went to find the famed place where “Cheers” was filmed, on the outside anyway.  We had thought this could be a refreshment stop but the place was pretty seedy inside and we moved on.  Found the most expensive street to shop – Tiffanys,Burberry, Chanel, Hermes, dreamed a little…  Time was marching on and we needed to do a little supermarket shopping, that out of the way we treated ourselves to a calorie overload at the Cheesecake Factory.  Needless to say, the portions are generous  (we were warned!) but it gave me the strength to attend to the mundane things like laundry once we got back to the hotel. Our hotel built in 1962 is certainly retro style. Nice big rooms though, and close to town.  By the way, I complimented the lady in front of us in the supermarket queue on her choice of wine – Kim Crawford Marlborough.  She said it kept on going up in price, she paid $17.49

Pam

Swan Boat - Boston Gardens

Yesterday (Wednesday) we did a day tour to the New England coast. More on that to come!

Towards Toronto

Last day on the train and it will be an extended day as, due to VIA Rail not owning the line, our train has to wait for the numerous freight trains, and even a stalled train meaning we are approximately 10 hours behind schedule. So arrival time in Toronto will be around 6 pm. Sadly we will lose a whole day from our schedule in Toronto.

Some curious things we have learnt – under the Canadian Constitution The Canadian train is required by law to stop for anyone who waves it down. This apparently happens quite often – rural folk, hunters etc can stand by the tracks (with maybe a dead elk over their shoulder), hail the train, load elk into baggage car and jump on board. This is because all coast to coast rail travel must be available to all sectors of the community. Our travel companions have included a French Canadian couple from Quebec, who work in foreign affairs and have had many overseas postings, Brazilian sociology teacher (think Borat and you will get an idea of how controlled we have to be). He also has a heavy metal radio show at home. A young Canadian lady chartered accountant returning home after a year travelling the world and doing her job remotely by computer. Also a recently married husband and husband who had honeymooned canoeing down the Yukon. An elderly deaf couple using sign language, Australian couple from Perth, and an American sign language interpreter who needs to be home in time for a C-section delivery where she will be interpreting for the mother to be! Also a portly English barrister currently living in Bemuda, and his mother from Cheltenham, characters befitting an Agatha Christie novel.

The Rockies melted away as agricultural land took over through Alberta and Saskatchewan (the wheat bowl of Canada), lots of harvesters out making the most of the late summer weather. Then the Manitoba prairies to the lakes and forests of Ontario. They go on for miles and miles – over 250,000 lakes in Ontario!. This pic - Mt Robson, highest peak in the Rockies, hiding in the clouds.

There is an activities programme on board and Darcelle is our activities lady. Pam has enjoyed both chair yoga and wine tasting. Sadly Bingo was cancelled, Pam most upset, and we both attended “Railway 101” telling us about the various signs, lights, track movements etc.

We have been keeping our eyes peeled for wildlife. Some people have seen moose, elk and a bear. We have seen a bald eagle and two deer, but there have been beavers busy at work and we have seen numerous beaver lodges.

Food – The food on board is excellent and promotes local cuisine to a very high standard. Some things we have had include “hot cereal”, prawns and scallops, pulled pork, roast duck, local salmon, pan-fried halibut, roast beef and Yorkshire pudding, lamb rack, bison burgers, butter tart, lemon pot pie, brownies, and lemon and raspberry torte, plus plenty of salads. There are always muffins and biscuits and fruit, juice, and hot drinks to graze on. Although we do get a bit of exercise walking to and from our cabin it is fair to say our physical activity is pretty minimal and we relish the opportunity to get off the train when ever possible. So far we have stopped at Jasper, Saskatoon, Melville and Sioux Lookout varying from 20 – 90 minute stops. Mountain resort of Jasper:

This country is vast and it makes you appreciate how difficult it is for locals to get around and to see their country. For Pam it is like a school project coming to life sitting in the domed top car, the train disappearing around bends or into moody darkness. One memorable moment was sitting in the domed car skies heavy overhead, light rain falling and a complete, brilliantly coloured rainbow forming an arch for the train to go through, which of course it never did – magic.

PS: Now in Toronto, train kept getting later and arrived a hotel finally at 10.30 pm!

Dining car set for dinner!

Pyramid Creek Falls, Rockies

Sunset at back of train - Alberta

Saskatchewan - wheat farm

Brief stop in Saskatoon - luggage wagon!

Barbara in the Dome carriage

Vancouver and On

Tuesday 22^nd August

We started the day taking an “interesting” route to try and find the much-lauded Vancouver Gastown Steam Clock. Once we were deep in the heart of Chinatown Pam did the sensible thing and asked if we were going the right way. “Oh no”, came the reply, “carry on down there and you’ll end up in ?? and you don’t want to do that!” With suitably clear instructions we made our way through some pretty seedy streets, came across one group that Pam assumed were lining up for a soup kitchen, and then a passerby asked them why they were queueing and a man told him he was lining up for his heroin!! From then on until we found said clock the air was ripe with the smell of cannabis smoke. The clock let off steam at 1 pm. The clock was built to cover a steam vent and is powered almost entirely by steam. Visitors wait for the sounding of the Westminster chimes and the accompanying rush of steam to get the perfect shot.

Our destination for the day was really Stanley Park, named best park in the world in a Trip Advisor survey 2014. We hopped aboard a local bus and indeed found the park to be very pleasant, with enough shady spots to keep the 28 degree heat bearable. We shared our lunch with the only wildlife we could find, a black squirrel, but signs around us warned not to feed the racoons, the geese and coyotes!! We wanted to see an installation of totem poles which were some distance away so with handy map in hand we followed minimal signage and an unhelpful gardener’s advice to eventually find them.

Our best pickup of the day was Emma, a Filipino pharmacist awaiting her papers to come through. She now lives in Ottawa and was in Vancouver on vacation, but had been scared witless by her friend about walking in the park alone after a recent attack on a lone woman jogger. She asked if she could join us. She was pleasant company and we felt we had done our good deed for the day. Plus she was happy to take some photos of us as well. We spent about 2½ hours walking round the park which we felt was enough to get us through the mainly sedentary train trip ahead of us.

Later – The Canadian travels 4,466 km from Vancouver to Toronto. We booked a sleeper plus cabin which has two chairs during the daytime. These are stowed away and two bunks are pulled down by an attendant. The cabin also contains a small washbasin, en suite toilet. Think miniature everything! Each carriage had one shower. We each got a shower pack bag with towels, soap, shampoo. After info and safety briefing from Serge, our attendant, we were invited to a bubbles and canape welcome in the lounge car. This train has twenty seven carriages including three panorama cars, activity carriages. There are a number of tour parties which are getting off at Jasper so it should be a little less busy from then on. Beds are firm but we slept reasonably well and we are getting used to the confinement of the living spaces.

Wednesday – Breakfast was really nice, we sampled the apple pancakes with maple syrup and bacon and will work our way through the rest of the selection over the next few days! All you ever imagined about the Canadian Rockies is true. Stunning vistas, the train winding through forested areas, rivers and a stunning waterfall. There is evidence of recent fires in some areas.

Pam and Barbara

Vancouver

Auckland airport, it is now 7.10 pm and the flight leaves in an hour. It has been a long day already but great to get a ride to Timaru airport and see friends there to see us off. A quick turnaround to our flight to Auckland which was boarding as we got there. Unfortunately, and contrary to what we were told, our bags didn't move as fast as we did and we arrived in Auckland to discover that we had no luggage! Frantic few minutes to try and get that sorted, and eventually they turned up on the next flight from Wellington! We were met by my sister Shirley and Donn and great to catch up with them briefly. Then to the international terminal where the drama continued with confusion over our seat numbers and what had been pre-booked for us. We didn’t get what we wanted in the end but compromised with what we were offered.

Bags found!

I realised that my shoes were no good for security as the metal zips set off the alarms and I got checked out fairly thoroughly by security each time I went through! 13 hours to Vancouver and we did manage to get some sleep during the night. Arrived on time to brilliant sunshine, warm weather and it was quickly into some more appropriate clothes and a dip in the pool at the hotel. A quick walk  to familiarise ourselves with the locality and back to the hotel for tea, and so ended the first day.

Barbara 

Lovely to have been farewelled from Timaru & Auckland in style - maybe our friends were worried we weren't actually going! As B said the woes of travelling hit us earlier than we expected, I thought at least we would get out of the country before anything went missing.  However, hats off to Air NZ who recognised a stressed pammy when they saw one, and remedied the missing luggage and did their best with our seating.  Good service, nice friendly staff and good food.

 The taxi drive into Vancouver city was pretty slick, although the driver needed to be cajouled into being  a tiny bit more friendly.  Won him round in the end, and he dished out a few facts - at this time of year there are up to 800 taxis waiting (in some mysterious holding lot somewhere at the airport) to be summoned to take passengers to the city as it is one their busiest seasons with cruise ships, and students returning.  He said Vancouver was an expensive place to live with the latest lot of apartments selling for $2 million CAD each.  We saw petrol for $1.38CAD ( not bad by our standards).

It still feels quite unreal that we have indeed started this wee adventure.
Pam

Monday 21 August

The big event of the day here was the solar eclipse! People were out in their droves with special glasses, pin hole contraptions, and cereal boxes all being used in various ways to ensure a safe view of the eclipse. We saw it in double vision as we passed someone who was using inverted binoculars to direct the image on a dark piece of cardboard!

We were on our way to the ferry that takes people across the water to North Vancouver. We sat in the sun and had some lunch before exploring the Lonsdale Quay Markets. It was then back to downtown and we walked to the Vancouver Art Gallery where there was an exhibition of Monet’s works on. We wiled away a couple of hours there and learnt quite a bit about the man himself and how impressionist painting came into being. We finished the day out doing some shopping and browsing in the Hudson Bay Company, a large department store.

This evening has been preparing for the train trip to Toronto that starts tomorrow night. We are restricted to a “small” bag that we can take on the train with us, and our suitcases need to go into the luggage hold so having to decide what we will need for the next four days. Interesting times!

Barbara

Found Post office, Info centre, a number of homeless people waiting for the sky to fall in, and the city in its Monday morning mode, as we made our way to where the Seabus ferry departed. Just like everything else in this small city this service was quick & efficient, and gave excellent views looking back over toward the city.  It is a ship watchers’ paradise, plus the added excitement of a heli-port and float planes means it’s a busy harbour.  Only one cruise ship in today.

The Monet exhibition was the first of our “cultural” visits and it didn’t disappoint.

We dined tonight at Original Joes which is a combination Irish/sports/family/you-name-it kind of place.

Haha – downsizing into smaller bags for the train trip!  Very strict controls on the size, weight and number of bags allowed into cabin.  We knew this so came prepared.  Yes I have my moose/bear binoculars ready.  Really looking forward to the next stage of our trip.

Pam

Eight days till we leave and it is a busy weekend catching up on a multitude of things that need to be done. We now have all our documents and itinerary sorted, just the packing to do - and setting up this blog - here's hoping it is going to work!
Barbara